domingo, 26 de fevereiro de 2012

Kitchen Knives 101


Thou Shalt Not Covet Thy Neighbor's Knife

Ityped "Kitchen Knives" into Google Search, and got over 27,000,000 results (in 1.7 seconds).

Surprisingly, that fact doesn't amaze me anymore! After all, you'll get around 2,000,000 results for searching, "pink elephants" and almost a half a million for, "left handed monkey wrenches"!

What did amaze me, was that even after I refined my search three or four times, I wasn't able to find one article on the subject, that included both research AND common sense recommendations that were independent of brand affiliation. Since I am a professional chef, I thought it appropriate, to write an unbiased article, and fill this inexplicable void!

The chef who taught my sanitation course in culinary school, dogmatically referred to a 'training need' as, "the gap between what the kitchen staff needs to know to perform their duties safely and effectively... and what they actually know". I'd like to borrow that term, in context, to describe what I see as a 'training need' in the home kitchen. Particularly, on the cutting board!

So, let's get started with the some of the basics here, like general knife terminology (Knife Points), and work our way through knife descriptions and uses, (Around the Block). We'll take a look at task specific knives, and finally, my personal recommendations (My Top Picks) for each category. Bon Appétit!


Knife Points

General Knife Terminology

  • 1Stamped or Forged

    Stamped knives often begin life as a cold-rolled sheet of metal and are then cut using a press, similar to using a cookie-cutter to make cookies. They are heat treated to harden the blade. This hardening, allows the knife to be sharpened to a very fine, long lasting angle, however, it also makes the blade more difficult to re-sharpen. Since their blades are thinner, stamped knives are usually better for precision tasks. This is why they are popular among Asian chefs, who use them to create sushi and elaborate garnishes.

    Forged knives start as a bar of metal, which has been folded on it itself many times to align the molecules within the steel, and make it stronger. It is then heated and hammered into shape either by hand, or using a hydraulic hammer. Once fashioned into a knife blank, a forged knife often undergoes as many as 40 additional processes to ensure that it is well balanced, sturdy, and more durable. This is why they can stand up to high impact tasks, like cutting through bones, and are generally higher quality and more expensive than stamped knives. Since they are not treated with super high heat, they are softer than stamped knives. This allows them to be more easily re-sharpened and have greater durability, because they possess a higher degree of flexibility than stamped knives and are therefore more forgiving.

  • 2Tang

    The tang of the knife, is the part that extends into the handle from the blade and connects them together. Knives can be either full tang, half tang, push tang, or rat-tail tang.

    Full-Tang Knives are one solid piece. They have better balance since the tang extends all the way into your hand, giving it more weight and a better feel. Full tang knives are riveted to join two separate handle pieces, and because of this, the two are less likely to separate. The tang is also visible all the way through the handle.

    Half-Tang Knives can be either half the width or half the length. This means, the tang may still be visible along the top edge of the handle, but not along the bottom. Half tangs can also be full width but only extend half way through the handle.

    Push-Tang Knives are what they sound like. A partial tang is pushed into the handle and secured with glue. A partial tang is much thinner than a full tang. They can be either half-push: with the partial tang only pushed halfway into the handle, or full-push: with the partial tang pushed through the full length of the handle.

    Rat-Tail Tang Knives are also what they sound like. A tang that diminishes in size, from the bolster, to the back of the handle, like that of a rat's tail. The tang is usually threaded on the end and secured with a bolt or screw.

  • 3Blade Material

    This is an ongoing argument, not so much a metallurgic one, but rather a personal preference of what material, or combination of materials, makes the best blade. Kitchen knife blades, like all bladed instruments, are typically made of carbon steel, stainless steel, high-carbon stainless steel, or ceramic. For the purposes of this comparison, let's define the characteristics of these blades, as they pertain to you the consumer, in three simple terms; price, maintenance and durability.

    Carbon Steel blades are usually inexpensive, and lose their edge quickly, but are the easiest to sharpen. They can react badly with acidic foods, and leave a metallic flavor. This is however, somewhat alleviated over time as they will develop a protective patina. These blades require more maintenance than others, as they need to be oiled, in addition to being washed and dried thoroughly. This blade material is quite durable as it can rust, and/or oxidize, and still be readily re-sharpened quickly and easily.

    Stainless Steel blades can be either expensive or inexpensive. In summary, there are low-quality and high-quality blades, and more-so in this case than others, you get what you pay for. Stainless steel is not truly stainless, it is more stain-resistant, so maintenance, has more to do with its ability to be re-sharpened, rather than care. In general, because of the hardness of the steel, this blade material is very hard to sharpen, and therefore its sharp edge is difficult to maintain. Even so, stainless steel blades hold their edge longer. They though, are also more brittle which makes the knife less forgiving and therefore less durable.

    High-Carbon Stainless Steel blades are usually expensive. They give you the best of both worlds, so to speak, by mixing the positive characteristics of both carbon and stainless steel knives. You get a knife that won't discolor or rust, and maintains its edge without being extremely hard to sharpen. This makes them one of the most easy to maintain knife blade materials. High-carbon stainless steel knives are also the most durable because they are able to bend without breaking and will not react with acidic foods like carbon steel knives.

    Ceramic blades are generally very expensive. Sometimes as much as two or three times the price of even a high quality steel knife. The advantage of a ceramic blade is its ability to hold its edge, without being honed or sharpened, for even months on end. However, ceramic knives are not as stable as their metal counterparts because they do not flex and are more fragile and brittle. Also, they can never be used for high impact tasks, like cutting bones or even chopping frozen vegetables. Ceramic knives although very sharp are extremely hard to sharpen, and often must be sent back to the manufacturer for this process. In addition, they have to be treated with care, because they are not resilient and can chip and break easily.

  • 4Handle
    The handle should be made of a sanitary material, and if you are looking for something easy to maintain I would suggest plastic, rubber or stainless steel. Most handles that are made of these materials are dishwasher safe. Impregnated wood handles, on the other hand, can be quite beautiful, but require more maintenance, such as hand washing and oiling from time to time, and are more prone to splits and breaks. Personally, I don't think wood is as sanitary a choice as the other options. Professional chef's in New York (and elsewhere) would receive a violation and fine from the board of health for using a knife with a handle, or cutting board, made of wood.

  • 5Highly-Rated Manufacturers


    Consumer Reports did an unbiased study on kitchen knives and reported that Wusthof Classic knives, a longstanding favorite among chefs as well as home cooks, beats their competition consistently.

    These knives are forged, made from high carbon stainless steel, triple riveted full tang, with a molded synthetic handle and are NSF certified.It is possible that the handle may be too thin for some, but for me it is just right. A high quality 8" chef knife can cost approximately $120. Of course buying a set of knives is typically more economical. Places like Chef's Catalog offer a wide variety of knife sets, and you can usually find one that suits your needs and budget.



    Global is another brand that comes out far ahead of the competition. They are more modern in design and are fully stainless steel, in which the handle is either welded or forged (depending on model). This forms a seamless design which gives the knife an appearance of being one piece. It also makes them very sanitary, because there aren't places for bacteria to hide and grow.

    The series of knives most comparable to Wusthof Classic would be the Global GF series. Some feel the handle is extremely uncomfortable. This may be due to its more modern nontraditional shape.

    Reviewers seem to have mixed feelings about the series as a whole. For the most part they praise the chef knife for its light weight, sharp edge and balance, but add that the bread knife, as well as other pieces are merely of acceptable quality. They are at the top end of prices for chef knives (not including those which are custom made). A 8.25 inch chef knife GF-33 runs about $160 (again usually cheaper as part of a set).


    Mercer knves are certified by NSF international. NSF is an organization that certifies products for the safety and health concerns around food, water and consumer goods. I first purchased Mercer knives in culinary school, and with them, I learned how to cook professionally.

    Their 8" forged chef knife is noticeably heavier, which really helps with the cutting process. It is also well balanced, with a thick blade. This blade helps with stability, when learning the basics, but is somewhat less precise than the others I have reviewed here. I would rate it's utilitarian non-slip handle, as good to excellent.

    I think this is a great knife for beginners, chosen by 90% of culinary schools, because it is pretty much bullet-proof. They hold up extremely well, and are affordable at about $40 for and 8" chef knife, and yet still forged. They also can take some abuse from chopping hard bones, or using a steel to hone it for the first time. For me the first scratch wasn't that tragic, because I knew it wasn't expensive, and I would be using it to learn.

    I don't feel this way about my set of Wusthof Classics. These are my favorite knives, and I am, to say the least, obsessive about keeping them perfect and protecting my investment. They are well balanced, with an extremely sharp, fine edge, have a timeless classic design, and ooze elegance. I find myself reluctant to put them in the dishwasher and risk dulling the edge, even though they are dishwasher safe. If you know how to handle knives, and care for them properly, a set of Wusthof Classics or Global GF Series seem the best choice. Since they are more precise, and more durable, they are well suited for experienced cooks.


    Lastly, but definitely worth mentioning, the same company that had been making Swiss Army knives for years also makes a very decent set of affordable kitchen knives.

    RH Forschner by Victorinox Fibrox knives are stamped not forged, and perform well when compared against other inexpensive knives. In fact, they perform almost as well as high-priced knives, according to Cooking for Engineers (cookingforengineers.com) who tested them against others. They too, have great non-slip handle, which comes in either black or white. The price-point of these knives is by far the greatest thing about them for the budget-conscious. An 8" chef knife runs about $25.

Chef's Knife

AKA: French Knife or Cook's Knife



A
chef's knife is the most essential knife in your kitchen. It will perform a variety of tasks, and is the most frequently used knife in a commercial kitchen (thus the name). This is the "super-knife" of knives! It can tackle just about every job on the cutting board. It can dice, chop, mince, julienne, brunoise, allumette and more. You can use it for vegetables, meat, and, when oiled, for dough. It can be used to paste garlic, chop herbs, and cut through soft bones. The more I use my chef's knife, the more exciting uses I find for it. For example, I discovered the heel of the blade "grated" whole nutmeg just as well as a Microplane. Although it is true that you can use this knife for many general-purpose tasks, this is not to say that it should be used for every purpose! I wouldn't use it for specialty tasks, such as filleting a fish or opening a clam. I would use it for carving a chicken sometimes, but I admit that a carving knife is the better choice. Still, this is the knife, with which I am most comfortable in my kitchen, and one I could never do without. This is the knife I would recommend buying first. Due to its extreme versatility, quality, is of utmost importance! High quality chef's knives last longer, can generally take more abuse, and are safer to use.

My Recommendations: 

Construction: For a chef's knife, I strongly recommend forged over stamped blades. Forged, because of the constant usage and frequent impact it will receive over its lifetime. Also, full tang, because of better durability, increased strength, and balance.

Materials: High carbon stainless steel. Synthetic handle.

Length: They typically range is from 6-12 inches. the 8" seems to be the favorite size of most chefs and at- home cooks, and what I use as well!

Price: Prices of chef's knives vary greatly, from approximately $20-200. Being the most important knife in your kitchen, this is where I would want to splurge and go for the highest quality knife within your budget. When properly cared for, it can last a lifetime!



Before moving on to paring knives, the last thing I should mention is that a Japanese santoku knife is much like a chef's knife in its use, however different in shape and function. Instead of a pointy tip it has more of a 'snubbed" tip and the blade is flat. The santoku, isn't really able to 'chop by rocking', like the chef knife. The blade of a santoku is usually much thinner and precise, however this means that foods are more likely to stick, which can be quite inconvenient. To alleviate this problem some santokus are hollow-ground meaning grooves have been ground into the sides, to help 'release' the food. Most agree that the chef's knife is more versatile and that its tip provides more precision. A santoku knife would be a good knife to add later on, but I wouldn't suggest buying it instead of a chef's knife. This is just a matter of personal preference.

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